Tuesday, June 23, 2009

Bodyboarders gone wild!

Finally got to surf for the first time since middle of may. Went to the Ave's on both saturday and sunday and they were like two different spots. Saturday was a pretty sick sesh with a couple of cool guys. It was barrelling nice on the inside and had some 2 1/2'ers on the sets. Sunday was a totally different story. It was super choppy and I could only go straight. Plus it felt like I was was bodyboarding in the grass during the winter rains back home cuz everytime I came up from duckdiving I was wrapped in strands of seaweed. The long strands of kelp looked like snakes in the water. It was pretty much a mission to be out there. Only positive was I GOT TO SURF N JUST BOARDSHORTS. I finally didn't have to get fully suited up and look like a sitting seal in the ocean. I'm getting some of my natural color back now. I know blogging isn't anything without pictures so i'll work on it next time. Down to weekly surf sessions so until then..Aloha.

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