Friday, January 30, 2009

Stuck on the mainland

Haven't had anytime to write anything since I've just been going to school the last couple weeks. I'm in Colorado stuck in the snow for now so I won't be surfing anytime soon. Guess we'll have to wait until summer..

Saturday, January 10, 2009

Moku o Keawe

Didn't get to do my annual New Year's day surf sesh since the waves was down but I got to cruise to Big Island for the past week. Never got to surf too much since I'm cruising here with my cousin that has a dislocated shoulder. Monday I surfed with Kawika Paul. Had some nuts waves at 4miles in the morning that was too crazy to catch. Honoli'i had some better waves and I couldn't even make it out my first try. That day was huge, like 3-5'.  Never got to surf another couple days then went the other day again. 

My cousin Jonah tried to come out with me and check on his shoulder but it popped out within the first couple waves. I took a shot of Honoli'i from the bronco. Jonah was bored too so he took some videos and pictures while I was rippin it up.

I leave at 10pm tonight, headed to Pohoiki.